Asolo, The City of One Hundred Horizons
The Cipriani connection, elegant white tuxedos and black butterfly bow ties, a green apple grappa dessert and a great sense of privacy.
The Villa that lured us to Asolo
By Caroline Feiffer.
Veneto famous for cities like Venice and Verona, with their impeccable art, architecture and the many grand historic palazzos, so why travel beyond in this region? Because that’s Via Oltra, intrigued by those little tell tells, a sense or intuition of a place being beyond. In the previous feature about Lucca, I mentioned how an accommodation often makes reason for a destination. And just like the villas of Tenuta di Tramonte served as reason to visit Lucca, Villa Cipriani was what lured us to Asolo in the first place, and like Lucca, Asolo will forever now be high on the list of places I long for.
The Cipriani connection
Like many we’ve traveled to Venice for its splendid uniqueness, and it was also during a trip here our curiosity for Asolo was sparked. It all began after a stay at the renown Hotel Cipriani in Venice some time ago, where we learned that this little place in Asolo, Villa Cipriani actually had a greater connection than just sharing the same name. Hotel Cipriani, now a Belmond property, was originally founded by Giuseppe Cipriani, the man behind the legendary Harry’s Bar in Venice as well as the inventor of the Bellini cocktail and Carpacio. After doing business together, mainly supporting with funding, the second Count of Iveagh Ruppert Guinness, hired Giuseppe Cipriani to transform his inn in Asolo into a charming hotel, now known as the picturesque small country hotel, Villa Cipriani. After learning about this connection, the history behind and viewing a few images of the hotel, we’ve had the Villa on our radar and been wanting to visit for some time, curious about the villa and sensing something special about Asolo. Just an hour from Venice by car, the drive to Asolo is upwards as the tiny medieval town is dotted on the hills of Marca Trevigiana at the foothills of the Dolomites. The scenic views already reveal why artist, writers and poets have been drawn here through centuries.
Villa Cipriani
Located right on the entrance to the little town center of Asolo, almost as a first impression and indeed what an impression. Stepping inside Villa Cipriani we found ourselves in a villa version of Hotel Cipriani of Venice, not in a copy paste kind of way, but in that special way where it is so evident that the aesthetics stems from the same person, with a clear imprint on everything from the interiors to the elegant gardens, the old-school setting and gentleman waiter service, whom naturally wear white tuxedos and black butterfly bow ties.
Time stands perfectly still here, as our ancestors knew a thing or more about service and how to create a space and setting for relaxation. The rooms of the villa are all different in character, with elegant classic interiors, antique furniture and upholstery, fabrics and wallpaper all kept in a theme of subtle colors of either blues, greens or reds. Only two rooms of the old villa have grand furnished terraces, some have balconettes while common for all are either large windows or doors framing the picturesque view.
The bathrooms are dressed in colorful hand-painted South Italian tiles of Campania.
Breakfasts is enjoyed in the garden or inside the restaurant with splendid hilly views, the menu is classic and seasonal, with something for all and a feeling of “everything is possible”, surprisingly also a green juice or the likes, emphasizing the attention to detail and catering to the individual guest needs.
Days are spent by the optic illusion of the infinity pool swimming and lounging, sourunded by tall pine trees, with the view that makes reason for the pseudonym phrase of Asolo — “City of One Hundred Horizons”.
Dinners at Villa Cipriani are enjoyed on the terrace or in the lovely restaurant. Classic silverware and Ginori 1735 porcelain everything just hit all those right little details we so appreciate. I will never forget the green apple grappa sorbet we had for dessert.
I’ve had some of my absolute favorite dinners here, possibly due to the atmosphere, elegant service as well as the aesthetics, and the white tuxedos doesn’t hurt either.
Asolo
The villa seems like a pocket sanctuary in the medieval little town, and with its location right by the old gates of the town heart, pedestrian streets are conveniently right at your feet for those morning or evening strolls. The town is a feasible charm, with wonderful independent little shops, a center square overlooking the landscape horizon. There’s a small wine bar right at the entrance of the town serving up natural local and domestic wines, and of course plenty of the region speciality Prosecco. When we visited a small group of chic creative friends hung here and lured us in for an aperitivo. Leaving Asolo, we loaded the trunk with treasures from Asolo Kilim and bottles from the wine bar after a lovely enthusiastic service at both shops as well as stocked up on some cute international children’s books from the little bookshop. We went on afternoon walks and grabbed wild mulberries off the tree, hiked to the top of the city at the ancient fortress and got all of that Veneto horizon view. Feeling rejuvenated and inspired — No wonder why artist, writers and poets have come here for inspiration.