Lucca where the historic wealth is ever present
Two historic villas, a city life swapped for regenerative farming, natural wine and olive oil production, plus a “must try” authentic restaurant and the balanced modernity of charming Lucca.
Places you want to keep secret
By Caroline Feiffer.
This piece is a great example of one of those places you would want to keep a secret, but I am delighted to share them with you as a friend of Via Oltra, as the very raison d’être of Via Oltra is all about places like these that are truly way beyond.
Accommodation before destination or the other way around?
Finding new destinations to explore, for me often starts with an intriguing interest of a place, and then the city/region/country - often comes secondary, but coincidently end up matching these special accommodations. Really it’s almost a rule, if the accommodation is nice, the people whom are behind it are nice and decided on opening in a nice area. This is also how I came across Tenuta di Tramonte. For some time I had followed this passion project with great admiration and was intrigued to the point where I managed to squeeze in a stay, despite the property being “closed for guests” as it was the loving owners vacation from managing before a full season awaited. I am not sure if their vacation mode made the experience extra calm, but the “please feel at home” gesture never felt more literal. Tenuta di Tramonta is a family passion project by husband and wife; Laurence and Lorenzo, who swapped their city lives in Geneva and Brussels for Lucca, determined to fully unfold the potential of Lorenzo’s family’s estate, Villa Trenta. Their careers in finance were replaced with a sustainable dream of regenerative farming, restoring and running, not one but two, grand historic villas, a boutique hotel, olive oil and natural wine production, with the arrival of their firstborn simultaneously (and recently welcoming their second child) — yet still planning to embark on new dreams like the add of a restaurant…
Villa Volpi
The theme sequence to Villa Volpi starts with an up-ward curved drive, one that’s aesthetically worthy of a classic old cabriolet, with views of beautiful villas dotted in the hilly landscape. Tall roses are first sights when arriving at the small parking as are a glimpses of the villa. The sound of our steps in the pea gravel and drizzling water from the pool fountain sets the perfect melodic opening as we walk to the villa.
Standing proud in the midst of old pinetrees with a flawless restored facade in classic subtle zabaione, shutters in contrasting dark green and a terracotta roof tile. Villa Volpi was originally built by bishop Volpi of Lucca in the 19th century as a private residence, the villa then became a convent in the 1940s with an important role and remaining centre of olive oil and wine production. By the time Laurence and Lorenzo encountered the villa, it had fell into disrepair, yet the couple saw the villa’s reel potential and opportunity being adjacent to the land of Lorenzo’s family property, Villa Trenta. The couple sat out to restore Villa Volpi maintaining the originality and splendor of the building throughout and brought the fields and gardens back to life.
The former convent now boasts 7 elegant guest rooms, lush gardens and a natural swimming pool that will make you want to disregard any idea you had of the perfect pool, especially with an aperitivo in hand sipping in the idyllic views.
Villa Trente
Just as we thought to have discovered Eden, a stroll down the hill through garden wildernes reveals the aristocratic elder sister of Tenuta di Tramonte villas, the historic Villa Trenta.
Equally impressive this grand dame of 2,500 m² spread over 4 floors, boasts enchanting and elegant decorations throughout certain to impress any aesthetes, history and culture enthusiasts alike.
Originally built by the Trenta family in the 15th century Villa Trenta’s originality remains barely untouched with antiques, period true furniture and decorations; wall frescoes, high ceilings, detailed tapestry, wooden beams, terracotta floors, terrazzo and tiles — the bathrooms and kitchen alone will sweep you off your feet, and if not the tranquil outdoor spaces, with its gardens, terraces, a large pool and tennis court might will.
The Villa is offered only as an entire villa rental, with minimum stays of a week, it accommodates 24 guests, with 12 bedrooms and 10 baths. The perfect venue for a friends and family holiday or special celebrations.
Villa Volpi however operates as a boutique hotel, but can be booked as an entire villa, although you’ll miss out on the delicious breakfast with housemade Tuscan crostata, jams, pesto, eggs (when the hens have produced enough) as well as seasonal fruits and greens from the gardens, all in delicate servings true to the regenerative values of Laurence and Lorenzo.
Lucca
While it’s tempting to just stay at the Villas, hanging in the garden or by the soothing natural pool, Lorenzo and Laurence have wonderful ideas to see and explore while in and around Lucca. A walk around the great green walls of Lucca’s historic city center is a must under the shade of the lined avenue trees. Lucca is a very feasible city that masters the balance of the original charm with modernity, from classic trattorias to cold pressed organic juices at bioroom, speciality shops, independant small bookshops, with a great international selection (also for kids), idyllic squares with groomed landscaping and classic carousels spinning calmly just next to pizzeria SUD who serves up incredible sandwiches and pizzas, while the nearby favorite of Laurence and Lorenzo, Antica Locando di Sesto is a “must try” restaurant during your visit, make sure to reserve a table in advance, I can assure you won’t be disappointed by the fares chef and natural farmer Aurelio Barattini cooks up. Pack your bags and go here for an aesthetic treat and splurge of natural farming.