Piedmont, The essence of sophisticated soil
Hilly drives and wines as far as the eye can reach, this is the place to keep on your list for 2025 spring, summer or fall.
The beauty of seasons reoccurring
By Caroline Feiffer.
While winter is slowly taking its grib on Europe, so are discreet signs of longing and perhaps planning of the promising seasons ahead, that’s the beauty of seasons reoccurring. On this note I wanted to share some wonderful ideas for this exciting time of researching and planning adventures for the prosperity seasons in the horizon, as winter really is such a wonderful time for recharging, searching within, reading and nourishing our body and minds, and not least a beautiful time for reflection, perhaps even envisioning.
In search of the lesser traveled paths
This summer we swapped the coast for the green riviera of Piedmont’s rolling wine hills and did not regret any bits of it. Hilly drives and wines as far as the eye can reach, only disrupted by dramatic mountain backdrops and the Piedmont jewel of hazelnuts planted row after row.
Bordering both Lombardy and Liguria Piedmont is tucked in a convenient location offering easy access to major cities: Genoa can be reached within 30 minutes and Milan within one hour by car, making it an ideal sanctuary to explore both cities and not least the often overlooked Turin, while residing in the breathtaking nature of Piedmont.
Nordelaia
We checked in to the 800 year old farmhouse Nordelaia now turned boutique hotel. The old villa was recently restored and re-opened post pandemic with a slow down ethos, envisioned and led by the British designer Rose Murray and her design studio These White Walls. The 12 room villa sits elevated on a hill leveling the nearby tower in the close horizon of the historic village Cremolino.
The high perched location ensures a 360 degree enchanting view, which was even more meditative when lulling away in one of the tree-hanging hammocks just above the pool, the latter offering heated swims on crispier days, with sun drenched views of the landscape that naturally becomes one with the scenery as the water floats into infinity.
If the shoulders didn’t lower after a mid day nap here, a visit to the wellness area might do the trick, here awaits a bright and inviting yoga and fitness room overlooking the additional pool — after some laps the adjoining relaxation area awaits with soft loungers divided by sheer curtains for privacy. The indulgence of the spa includes a hammam, steam and sauna paired with an ice-cold shower and not least the Kneipp foot pools, a Tibetan sound therapy room and the wide selection of Ayurvedic treatments. To complete the slow down essence the space is beautifully located in the original villa’s lower grounds, adding to the charm and grounded feel with its stone vaulted ceilings.
While a threadmill and yoga mat is conveniently on hand in these beautiful vaulted rooms, do not miss the rejuvenating wellness of the Piedmont nature. Step outside and enjoy the nature of Montferrat, a UNESCO world heritage site, explore the landscape on steep hikes, bike rides or easy walks to the nearby Cremolino, a village that tells tales of a more inhabited past compared to the deserted feel of the presence.
The famous reds and slow food
It’s no secret that Piemonte is much about wine, with Barolo and Barbaresco being huge attractions — really who doesn’t like a good Barolo from Giuseppe Rinaldi? It obviously requires great soil to produce such splendid wines, why the soil naturally returns equally splendid produce, which makes reason for Piedmont not be disregarded for their incredible produce and slow food culture, a culture celebrated in the Slow Food Movement that originated here in the 1980s, born out of a protest of a huge burger chain opening in Rome’s historic center, Carlo Petrini a man from Bra, Piedmont - had enough and founded the movement with three cornerstones in his philosophy “bueno, pulito e giusto” — good, clean and fair.
Where to dine
The food at Nordelaia is absolutely incredible, the Michelin Star cuisine at L’Orto led by British chef Charles Pearce has a less meat heavy focus than one would expect of this region, his cuisine and vision of the food very much celebrates the locally grown vegetables — even at the attentive breakfast you’ll be served a small garden salad alongside freshly made juices and of course the Italian selection of housebaked goods. The real jewel of this place lies in the unpretentious bistro that is nothing but ambitious — here the produce quality shines through in simple traditional dishes with a modern green flair, the tomato tarte tartin, a hazelnut topped spinach cannelloni, and the agnolotti pasta were all beyond. We ended up venturing out for lunch almost every day, simply to explore different restaurants as we wouldn’t want to miss Nordelaia evenings, especially the care of the sommelier whom each evening presented us with a new and more enticing natural wine than the day before — he hit the nail instantly and understood our taste. Piedmont has many great conventional wines, but is also the region home to a paramount front runner in the business of natural wine production, the belated Stefano Bellotti founder of Cascina Degli Ulivi —House of Olives. The agriturismo is a swift 45 minutes drive from Nordelaia, but if the trip seems too much of a journey, do ask for the wines by Bellotti while dining at Nordelaia and beyond as his daughter, Ilaria continues his great legacy.
Places that shouldn’t be missed
Trattoria La Coccinella is one of them, a family run bolthole restaurant whos charm reveals from the moment you enter. The place is like a time warp with endearing original Italian interiors and miscellaneous. The region speciality tajarin is not to be missed (a super thin noodle pasta) this place earned a place in my heart already by the glimpse of the menu which entailed a favorite herb infused gelato of mine, gelato all lavanda.
Speaking of gelato, there’s not a place more original than Gelateria Canelin in Acqui Terme, a short drive from Nordelaia, their espresso gelato is such a satisfying pick-me-up on a warm afternoon.
In Alba, Osteria dei Sognatori is well worth the line at lunch, the food is simple, no frills classic piemontese, as is the space, however the ambiance of this small restaurant is everything you dream of, get a table outside, to ensure front row seats of the tajarin pasta being rolled, dried and hand cut in the old pasta lab just across the street.
In Asti, Enoteca Malia has a great selection of natural wines, and serve small bites with perfectly sun ripe tomatoes, mozzarella and tinned fish.
Needless to say, Piedmont is indeed a region not to be missed.